DESCRIPTION: Picea is the botanical name for the Spruce tree. These are evergreen
trees that are
grown for their ornamental and commercial value. They are found in temperate
countries of the Northern
Hemisphere. They are hardy trees, except when young they are susceptible to
injury, especially if they
grow at lower altitudes. Spruce trees can be distinguished from Pine and Fir
trees by inspecting their
shoots. The needles of Pine trees (See, Pinus) are arranged in groups of two,
three, or five, and are held
together with a sheath. Those of the Spruce are arranged singly on the branches.
When the leaves fall
from the Spruce, a small peg-like base is left on the stem. This characteristic
gives a rough texture to the
branch. There is no peg left when a leaf from a Fir tree falls, only a disk-like
scar. The cones of the
Spruce dangle from the branches, except when very young, and they stay on
the branches several months
after they are ripe. The cones of the Fir are erect on the branches and they
break up as soon as the seeds
are ripe, leaving only a central core on the shoot. P. rubens, the Red Spruce,
isn't commonly grown,
however it is valued as a source of wood pulp for the manufacture of paper.
Its wood is light and soft and
is perfect for this purpose. It is occasionally used as construction lumber,
in the making of boxes and
crates, and for sounding boards of musical instruments. The tender, young
growth is used in making
spruce beer. Smaller trees are often used as Christmas trees. It is found
wild from Nova Scotia to the
mountains of North Carolina. It doesn't live long and seems to flourish only
in the North and further
south at considerable elevations. The needles are dark yellowish-green and
sharp-pointed. They may grow
from three-eighths to five-eighths of an inch in length. The cones grow from
1 to 2 inches long and have
clear reddish-brown scales. The Red Spruce may grow up to 80 feet high with
a 1- or 2-foot diameter. P.
abies, the Norway Spruce, is a pretty tree with dark green, glossy needles
growing from * to 1 inch in
length. Its cylindrical cones grow from 4 to 7 inches long. Norway Spruces
can be used as a windbreak
and as Christmas trees. Burgundy Pitch is the purified resin extracted from
this tree. Another product
made from various kinds of Spruces is tannin; this is extracted from the bark.
More Spruces will be
mentioned below in the varieties section.
POTTING: Spruce trees need a relatively pure atmosphere to survive. They
will die if they are covered
with soot or other impurities. Some Spruce will grow on dry soil, but they
will do much better if the soil
never gets very dry. If these trees are going to be planted in a forest, they
should be planted when they are
9 to 15 inches high. Plant them in very small holes and mix in a few ounces
of superphosphate. Spruces
intended for the garden can be planted when 3 or 4 feet high. Larger plants
can even be transplanted by
skilled gardeners. Spruces form compact balls of fibrous roots that make transplanting
them with
minimum shock possible. The best time to plant them is in early spring, before
new growth begins, or
from late August until mid-fall. Planting too late in the fall is not advisable
because the plants don't have
time to become well established before the beginning of winter. Except for
very small plants, Spruce
shouldn't be moved until they are balled and burlapped with a good, unbroken
ball of soil attached to the
roots. For trees grown as ornament, holes that are 2 feet or more deep and
at least a foot wider all around
than the ball of soil should be dug. If the soil is poor, dig larger holes
and add good dirt. The balls of soil
should be set in an inch deeper than they were previously growing. Pack soil
along with compost or other
organic matter around it and soak thoroughly with water. Mulch the surface
with peat moss, leaf mold,
compost, or other material. Make sure to soak the ground completely during
dry periods for the first year
or two until they become well established.
PROPAGATION: Wild types may be increased by seeds sown in friable (fine,
crumbly) soil. Seeds
take from 2 to 4 weeks to germinate, so time them accordingly that once they've
sprouted there will be no
more danger from frost. Don't plant your seeds on ground where water accumulates.
Beds, 3 to 4 feet
wide and 12 to 15 inches apart, should be made. Sow the seeds thinly and cover
with a *-inch of soil or
coarse sand. It would be beneficial to protect the seedbeds from harsh sun
or excessive frost by covering
with slat shades. Seeds may also be started in containers in a frame or greenhouse.
Hybrids may be
increased by grafting on stocks of their types that have been established
in containers or by cuttings.
Grafting is accomplished under glass in the spring or winter. The stocks should
be established in pots
and brought into a warm greenhouse a few weeks beforehand. Erect shoots should
be used for scions
when possible and regular side grafting may be practiced. When the union is
complete, they should be
placed in a cold frame and eventually in a nursery border. Cuttings of the
dwarf kinds of the common and
Oriental Spruces can be rooted in late summer and fall. Short side shoots,
2 inches long, are inserted in a
bed of sand in a propagating case in a greenhouse. Once they've formed roots,
they are potted separately
in small containers. Layering isn't usually done with Spruce, though they
root very well this way. As a
matter of fact, the lower branches of some kinds take root when in contact
with the ground. Pruning isn't
really required unless the tree begins to form more than one trunk. Lower
branches should be cut off if
they start to die.
VARIETIES: P. Abies (Norway Spruce) & (var. that have colored leaves & interesting habit of growth)
argenteo-spica, aurea, pyramidata, columnaris, pendula, inversa, viminalis, virgata (Snake Spruce) &
monstrosa - (dwarf var. for the rock garden) conica, pygmaea, parviformis, compacta, Clanbrasiliana,
procumbens, tabuliformis & pumila.
P. orientalis (Oriental Spruce) & dwarf var. aurea, nana, pygmaea, aureo-spicata.
P. Engelmannii & var. argentea, glauca, Fendleri.
(The Blue Spruces) P. pungens (Colorado Spruce) & var. glauca, caerulea, argentea, Kosteriana; P. glauca
R. H. Montgomery (dwarf kind).
(Japanese Spruces) P. bicolor; P. Glehnii; P. jezoensis; P. Maximowiczii; P. polita (Tigertail Spruce); P.
Schrenkiana.
P. obovata (Siberian Spruce); P. Smithiana (Himalayan Spruce); P. spinulosa (Sikkim Spruce); P. glauca
(White Spruce); P. rubens (Red Spruce); P. mariana (Black Spruce); P. sitchensis (Sitka Spruce); P.
Breweriana; P. Omorika (Servian Spruce); P. asperata; P. brachytyla; P. Koyamai; P. likiangensis; P.
morrisonicola.


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